Finally: SYXZ!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

After four years of devolopement i finally decided how Schorschs Z-axis looks like. The old four-motor-overkill-but-underperforming-axis is gone and now there are some fine ballscrews, given to me by the great Timm Burkhardt, and polished silver-steel rods giving Schorsch 295mm of the straightest Z i can make.

2016_dec_sxyz_02

Although the two ballscrews are 100% straight i decoupled them a bit from the tray to compensate any shifting that may come from my printed motor-ballscrew connector. Maybe i will change that but for now there is absolutely no reason.

(sorry for the blurry pictures, when there is time i will update them)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

It’s an angry robot.

2016_feb_SXY_02-1Despite working hinges (!) this little one became angry when the white ABS chose to warp intensivly on his chin. Look at it – i also would get mad with that chin. This one was printed in 0.15mm, 30mm/s. Another one @0.2mm, 24mm/s  is almost ready, but i don’t think it will get much better. 20116_feb_SXY_01
As you can see, one can still see X because it still is the old one. Btw. I decided to buy a new Z instead of building one by myself. It feels kind of cheaper that way. 🙂

accuracy…

2016_jan_SXY_01Sometimes you just want to print something to see if the changes you made on your maschine made it better or worse. A few days ago i installed new step-sticks for X and Y, the ones with 1/32 microstepping. Although the stepps/mm doubled, my Ramps has no problems driving SXY with 400mm/s on rapid-moves. The sound is a bit smoother but there is still room for improvement…

The print on the picture above is this robot from thingiverse. It has moving arms, hands, legs and feet. The support you see is to print the arms with ~30° overhang. The gaps between the moving parts are ~0.33mm. I am not shure if it is a good idea to print it with ABS…

Not shure if this makes it to new Z…

2016_jan_not-yet-zSchorsch’s new Z-bearings will look kind of like X and Y. But in stead of the 8mm Rods X and Y use i want to use 10mm to reduce shaking. The BBs are 13mm in diameter because there is no need to make it as small as X and Y. Maybe i should support the rods… and redesign the shown part… and rethink all other related parts… meh.

Let’s see what 2016 brings!

Previev: B-line

2015_dec_b-line00It took me a while to put on Schorsch’s first new line. Both, X- and Y-axis are running so soft and light, it kept going away much too easy. I will make some claps for that (they will be lost the next time i need it).2015_dec_b-line01Here you can see that only the B-line is put on. And you can also see that the tiny grove where the line is guided from the right side is not cleaned up very well… sorry. I’ll fix that. The two ball-bearings facing to the camera are for the A-line that is not put on yet. I noticed that there still are some tubes to make to fix two more bearings and wasn’t in the mood for dirty work anymore… 2015_dec_b-line02The result with only one line is pretty amazing. Next steps include powering up the motors and see how fast it get’s.

what’s with that print?

schorschxy46

My first tought was ‘WTF?!’ but Joris just made a Cura-script that changes layerthickness in ‘waves’ or skews them over X.

It doesn’t seem to enlarge layerthickness to get the waves but reduces them so that your result won’t be larger.

But be aware of several surprises – after printing my cura-job SchorschXY got Z down to 89.?? mm with a 20mm thing…

[First post – never published] I want a RepRap! …or @ least an extruder…

This is my first post i just found in the drafts:

weired construction

Since there is no lathe for me i drilled a hole into the head of  the 8mm-screw so i can fix it to my spindle.

Lower there are two ballbearings fixed to the bench. It took about one hour to make 5 mm out of 8 and it is not that exact… but i want it!

extruder_screw_v1

The first screw got lost just a few houres after taking that picture. Thank goes out to cameraphones!

extruderscrew_v2

Unfortunately I almost lost anything of my tools and even material over the last few years so that you can see the foot of an old GDR-closed I just found. Just drilled a hole for the bearing and made it fit with the flange.

It took about 5 minutes to make the teeth.